Along The Shore, Portugal.
In Portugal, along the coastal reefs, between Peniche and Baleal, between Lisbon and Nazaré, a special atmosphere permeates rocks that sometimes face the ocean abruptly. From this confrontation come waves. From these waves surfers are born. Within these tribes, each one of them waits for the wave, but, when one observes their faces and their attitudes, they say more than that: they seem to wait for the arrival of the "Messiah". In a form of strange paradox, we all have a unique and universal relationship to the ocean. On these Portuguese coasts, this relationship is exacerbated by its particular geography. Two elements that confront each other with force : water and stone. An element from which we come, and an element on which we live.
Physicists say that the wave is a phenomenon of energy transfer, as "a disturbance traveling from one point to another in a given environment" according to the dictionary.
To describe this series, I would quote Don Wilson’s novel 'The Dawn Patrol' :"Something is disturbed, that is, two elements clash, triggering a vibration. Vibration is energy. It is transported from one point to another by the phenomenon of the wave.
The water itself does not move. What happens is that one of its particles buffers the next, which in turn stamps the next, and so on until the last one hits something else. So when you surf a wave, it's not the water you surf. She is only the medium.
What we actually surf is energy."
